Star Tribune: "Sea Change is a keeper"


Star Tribune restaurant critic Rick Nelson gives Sea Change "3 1/2 stars" as "an exciting new epoch in the local seafood dining category" and "the genre's first notable player" in more than a decade.

Catch of the day: The Guthrie's Sea Change is a keeper
by Rick Nelson, Star Tribune
(November 4, 2009)

It has been a watershed year for chef Tim McKee.

Along with overseeing four top-performing restaurants -- La Belle Vie, Solera and Barrio in Minneapolis and Smalley's Caribbean Barbeque in Stillwater -- he and business partner Josh Thoma opened their second Barrio in St. Paul's Mears Park neighborhood in June. A few weeks earlier, he was the first Minnesotan to be named Best Chef: Midwest by the James Beard Foundation, his industry's equivalent of being handed an Oscar. Oh, and in July, McKee launched a little enterprise called Sea Change.

The name has several meanings. First, the obvious: The Guthrie Theater's principal dining venue, formerly known as Cue, has swapped management (now Dallas-based Culinaire), hired the region's highest-profile chef (McKee) and been transformed into a seafood-focused restaurant.

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